T'aimes le flânerie?

14:22

The sun is shining over Paris today, for the second weekend in a row. That's it, I'm calling it. Spring is here, and it's the perfect time to learn a new french word.

flâneur



A flâneur is someone who strolls around, observing society and soaking up the atmosphere. Balzac described flânerie as "the gastronomy of the eye", and Baudelaire explained it thusly:

For the perfect flâneur, for the passionate spectator, it is an immense joy to set up house in the heart of the multitude, amid the ebb and flow of movement, in the midst of the fugitive and the infinite. To be away from home and yet to feel oneself everywhere at home; to see the world, to be at the centre of the world, and yet to remain hidden from the world...
 Charles Baudelaire, "The Painter of Modern Life" - Originally published in Le Figaro, in 1863. 


First of all I want to set the mood on this post. Please play this music as you read, and if you can, drink a strong black coffee.



For me the perfect place to start your first flânerie is at Notre Dame. Head for Metro Châtlet and cross the Pont Neuf for an amazing view of the mediaeval heart of Paris. You can walk through the Marché aux Fleurs and see the rows and rows of freshly cut and potted plants ready for sale. On a Sunday this becomes a bird market too - with the occasional rabbit up for sale.


 Because the Île de Cité is free from gratte-ciel (sky scrapers), you can really see how blue and clear the sky is. Even if you don't go inside, to see the intricate stone work lit up by the strong spring sunshine is something that you can't miss.

As you absorb the amazing gothic masonry, walk down the right hand side of the cathedral. Here you will arrive at Square Jean XXIII, dedicated to Pope John XXIII, who was pope from 1958-1963. Here you can lounge on benches situated under cherry trees and watch the rest of paris roll by. You have an amazing view of The Seine on one side and the beautiful walls of Notre Dam behind you. The gardens are filled with flowers and everyone from grandmères with children and beatniks with saxophones is making the most of the sunshine with you.

If you can tear your self away from the jardins, stroll east and cross over to St-Louis en l’Île. Here is the most famous ice cream shop in Paris - Berthillion. It may look like a hole in the wall, but every Parisian know that this is where to get the best ice cream in Paris. Be prepared to queue, but do not worry - your patience will be richly rewarded. There are over 70 flavours. Some are typical ice cream flavours (chocolate, strawberry, salted caramel) and some feel very French (coffee, marrons glacés, and Agenaise, which is Armagnac and prunes). In addition to this they have a rotating menu of seasonal flavours as well, so whenever you go there will be something to tempt you





So with your ice cream in hand, head for the water. You will not be alone here, tourists and real Parisians collide as everyone strolls along the river banks. The dock areas are rammed with students, bohemians and Bo-Bos (bourgeoise bohemian - the French version of hipsters) reading poetry out loud or playing guitars. The smell of cigarette smoke is often punctuated by the smell of something a little more potent and the occasional wine cork popping. Ne panique pas! Even though the Police HQ is located nearby, they will not be coming - they know this is just how it goes on the banks of The Seine on a sunny day.



My favourite thing to do is head back towards Notre Dame and Pont Neuf, especially in the late afternoon. You walk into the sunshine, and the whole of Paris seems golden in the sunlight. Even after my worst weeks, when the kids have been evil, I've been bumped into countless times on the Metro, and had arrogant Parisian business men shrug at me when they knock over my coffee in a café, this gilded version of Paris always reminds me of how lucky I am to be living in this city, even if for only a short time.

So indulge your eyes (and maybe your tastebuds) and enjoy un peu de flânerie avec moi.


1 comment:

Andrew Horn said...

So evocative. Agenaise sounds like my sort of ice cream, a classy rum and raisin.